The Anatomy of a Perfect Button-Down

Watch the Video | Button Down Mistakes Video

Shop shirts: Slim/Classic, Oversized, Cropped, Curvy, Worth Saving for

Everyone talks about investing in "quality basics," but what does quality actually look like in a button-down shirt? Forget the price tag – here's what truly matters:

1. The Collar: Architecture, Not Just Fabric

A well-constructed collar is sculptural yet natural. It should stand on its own without looking stiff or collapsing under its weight. The interlining (the hidden layer that gives structure) makes all the difference - too flimsy and it wilts, too rigid and it looks costumey.

Look for a collar that:

• Maintains its shape throughout the day
• Creates a clean line whether buttoned or open
• Has symmetrical points that sit flush against your chest when unbuttoned
• Preferably arcs down in a curve rather than hang in a straight line

Even at lower price points, brands like Uniqlo show this attention to structure where it matters most.

2. Fabric That Moves With Intention

Luxury isn't spackled in place - it's purposeful movement. Quality fabrics drape rather than crunch, creating a clean line from shoulder to hem.

What to watch for:

• How does it hang? Quality fabric falls straight down without bunching
• Does it recover from wrinkles or hold them stubbornly?
• Is there a subtle weight that signals substance without heaviness?

The difference between a $1,190 shirt that looks lumpy and a more affordable option that flows beautifully often comes down to styling.

The Row's gorgeous Maigret shirt ends up looking lumpy when styled atop the turtleneck above. Even smooth fabrics with fluid drape can end up missing the mark if they're worn on top of grippy layers. See my video and Net-a-Porter's product video for what to avoid when you're layering.

And while we've got this closeup, check out the refined execution of the seam allowances! Notice the armholes in particular – this technique requires specialized precision.

3. The Forgotten Detail: Armhole Placement

This might be the most overlooked element of shirt construction, yet it's instantly recognizable to the trained eye. High-cut armholes signal quality craftsmanship and create a more refined silhouette. You're unlikely to see it listed in a garment's description, but you can spot it in the photos, especially ones with the arms lifted or folded out, hands on hips.