Button Down Mistakes to Avoid
The dress shirt has been a menswear staple for centuries, but truly became a preppy classic in the early 20th century as college students adopted button downs for their sporty lifestyle. Traditionalists still see the button down as the quintessential smart casual shirt.
As we see the revival of 90s prep this decade, the button down takes on relevance in womenswear, from the old money aesthetic to quiet luxury to classic style.
Even though the dress shirt stands for timeless simplicity, a few common mistakes surround it.
The Name
The term "button down" refers specifically to shirts that have buttons at the tips of the collar, to keep it in place. Shirts that don't have these buttons on the collar are called "button up." However, I have yet to hear "button up" in conversation, so I (erroneously) call both types "button downs."
A button down from Polo Ralph Lauren and a button up shirt by Charvet
Collar
One frequent mistake with button downs is overlooking the collar. Polished shirts from high-end brands feature sculptural collars that are meticulously shaped using heat, steam and pressing. The collar roll, spread and height are all carefully constructed. In contrast, a flat collar looks sloppy.
Flat collar in store, refined sculptural collar on the model (albeit exaggerated a bit for dramatic effect)
Organic Cotton
"Organic cotton" simply means the cotton was grown without synthetic pesticides or fertilizers. While some perceive organic as more eco-friendly, the term does not indicate quality in terms of fiber length, smoothness or wearability. I purchased and returned one such scratchy style.
Armhole
The armhole is the hole cut out for the arm, where the sleeve meets the bodice. A low, loose armhole looks sloppy, while higher, tighter armholes look sleek. They also allow for greater mobility - you can swing your arm without the body riding up. High end brands tend to cut shirts with higher armholes, and mass brands go for low armholes to be able to reach more customers.