Alterations: warnings and best practices
Among the worst fashion advice I keep hearing over and over: "just get it altered!"
I get the appeal for vintage or outlet finds that don't quite fit, but alterations can be complicated, pricey, and disappointing. Like ending up with a jacket that, yes, is closer to the body, but lifeless compared to a fast fashion $80 jacket:
$700 jacket that's closer to the body, in gray; in blue: $80 tweed jacket that's less "fitted" but full of life
Blazers
One of these blazers has more fabric in the chest and hips – but how many inches and where, exactly?
First blazer has more fabric in the chest and hips
Designers work back and forth with their sample makers to get these proportions, the structure, the feel just right. And they’re starting with a roll of fabric. An empty slate.
A tailor has to start with something that already has structuring built in. You can try adding or removing shoulder padding, but I avoid shoulder alterations. Look at these layers – it’s too complex:
Simple guidelines:
- Altering the sleeve length is straightforward, but working buttons with buttonholes limit how much you can change the length.
- Narrowing the sleeves is also doable.
- The waist can be let out (expanded) or taken in (made smaller), but expansion is limited by how much fabric is in the seam allowances when taking out.
- The length can be changed by a bit, but allow enough space between the bottom button and the edge; likewise with pockets, if any. Changing a jacket from full to crop can be a better option than a minor but awkward change.